Smoke Free at Oktoberfest

My only two requests for our trip to Europe was at least one night in Zurich to see old friends and one day in Munich to properly introduce Martin to Oktoberfest. Yes, this American was introducing her German boyfriend to Bavarian culture. I was excited and not just for the beer and general good cheer, but also because we were going on a weekday, which meant plenty of time to walk around, play carnie games and experience the festival without the obligation or fear of getting into a beer tent. That plus in the past few years, Munich has banned smoking in the tents which meant clean air for all!

We took the train from Zurich and arrived in Munich to find the rain and clouds even darker and more miserable…so much for walking around the fair grounds. We quickly hurried to the hotel (an overpriced tenement) dropped our bags and got changed, at least I had to get changed, Martin refused to wear lederhosen.

We spent approximately 17 minutes walking through the fairgrounds, checking out the empty rides and vacant beer gardens before ultimately admitting defeat and heading inside the Lowenbrau Tent. 7 Masses, 2 pig knuckles and plenty of new friends later we were having the good time I always expect from Oktoberfest.

At 8pm it was time to introduce Martin to the true craziness of Oktoberfest. While our Tent had begun to fill up and the band was amazing, it was Monday night after all and therefore not as ridiculous as on the weekends. That is, at least our tent wasn’t. But there is always one that is beyond chaos– the Hofbrau Tent, home of the rowdy Americans and Australians.

We were able to get in, but that is where the fun ended. The place was packed as expected and not willing to battle it out, we called it quits before even ordering a beer. At 9pm we called it a night and headed back to the hotel, slightly buzzed but excited for a good night´s sleep. And there was the rub, while Oktoberfest was finally smoke free and we left feeling healthy and happy, our hotel room was anything but. The placed reeked! What we had originally mistaken for a musty smell turned full evil nicotine. The smell was so potent, even with the windows open, neither Martin nor I slept the entire night. We were in fact happy and excited for our 6 am train to Martin’s house the following morning.

Martin and I in the Lowenbrau Tent