Bikes, Hikes and Lake Life

This past week wrapped up our two week trip to Europe. Well technically my two week trip…Martin took the kids over a week before me for some time with his parents in Germany. 

The itinerary: I would fly into Frankfurt, take the train to Munich for one night with the Schroeder's (Oskar’s best friend Henry and his family moved back to Munich about 18 months ago so we were going to see them for the weekend), then on to Sonklarhof for a week with the German family, and then finally the San Francisco Breuers would leave for a four day / three night hut hike in the Dolomites before finishing up the vacation with a few days of relaxation at Lake Garda.  

Below are the stories!

Lake Garda

What was I thinking… I thought to myself as we began our drive south from the Dolomites towards Lake Garda. Why had I insisted that we spend a few days at one of the lakes in Italy?! It was in the wrong direction of our final destination, making the drive back to the airport over nine hours long, the thermometer was increasing higher and higher with each mile driven and there was no reason why we needed to go to Lake Garda at all (there were countless other alpine lakes that were actually on our route back to Germany). The only thing I could think of is that it sounds like a good idea in the middle of a cold spell in February.  

But the Airbnb was booked and non refundable, so we were going. I just hoped my streak of booking bad accommodations wasn’t going to continue with this one. 

Thankfully the apartment was as nice as we had hoped and was even better than I had mentally prepared for:  it had AC, a good layout for our family, a nice pool and was a quick five minute walk to the lake. This we could work with. 

Highlights included, Aperol spritz’s, lots of pizza, pinsa and paninis, paddle boating and swimming in the lake and in the pool

Hut Hike Day 4: From Fonda Savio Homeward Bound

Distance Travelled: 3.8 km
Elevation Gained: 0
Time to Destination: 2.5 hours  

After two days of strenuous hiking (both mentally and physically) we were all excited for an easy walk back down to civilization and the car. The path took us from above the tree line and then back into the forest.  But while easy, it wasn’t without adventures. 

At the beginning of the hike down we could hear a few bells. I thought they were cow bells and tried to play it off like it was no big deal. But then it became a cacophony of bells and echoes and looking up we could see a herd of mountain goats running over a peak in the distance and down across our side of the mountain. Again, I aimed to be nonchalant and ease the kids’ concerns by telling them there was no way the goats were going to come to us… it was too far to cover. And then all of a sudden we were surrounded by goats.  One minute they appeared miles away and the next they were grazing on grass within arms reach.  

After a few minutes of excitement, and after persuading the kids that they in fact shouldn’t try to pet the goats, we continued our journey back down the mountain and into the valley and forest below. 

Overall it was an amazing trip and definitely a core memory for me and hopefully the kids.  But I will say that four days and three nights was the limit for the kids.  The final stretch was a gentle wide slope of green grass before the parking lot and the kids ran down it like they had escaped from captivity.  The joy they let out while running was not dissimilar to the kids from the Sound of Music running after reaching the safety of Switzerland. It could have also been because it was the first place where they could run without risk of falling off of a cliff, but who knows!

Hut Hike Day 3: From Lavaredo to Rifugio Fratelli Fonda Savio

Distance Travelled: 7.61km
Elevation Gained: 536m
Time to Destination: 5.5 hours

After the busy-ness of Locatelli, Lavaredo and Auronzo, we were all looking forward to our final night at the final hut, which was only accessible via a strenuous hike and would hopefully be a bit more mellow once we got there. 

While yesterday was mentally exhausting, this hike was physically tiring.  The first 2 km (between Lavaredo and Auronzo) were relatively flat and they flew by in no time.  And then we had to walk straight down the valley (almost back to where we originally started on the bus) descending over 450m in elevation gain. At the bottom, we cut off onto a side trail and were practically all alone…We passed no more than 20 people over the remaining 3 hour hike.  Which I suppose shouldn’t be surprising, the trail was straight up a gap in the mountains,  and included 536m in total elevation gain.   

Just before the final push (assisted by more cables and metal runs, this time without a harness) my energy was running low so we paused for a snack break. And then Alva and Oskar bounded up the remaining section like two experienced climbers offering me words of encouragement to get me up the final section. They had so much fun, they wanted to do the final section again afterwards. 

Upon arriving at the hut we knew it was going to be our favorite. It was much smaller, completely off the beaten path and the five picnic tables outside were occupied but not at capacity. It was amazing to think that on just the other side of the range there were hundreds of people and here there were less than 40.  

The only downside to the hut were the sleeping arrangements which made me more than a bit nervous and slightly claustrophobic… our beds were in the shared attic with 6 other people, the rafters were so low you had to perpetually duck, the natural light was limited and our feet were tucked so deep into the corners of the roof you couldn’t really lift up a leg when laying down.  

Sleeping accommodations aside, this was still our favorite hut.  The people were nice, the food was delicious, we actually slept just fine in the attic and it provided us with the experience we were looking for.

Hut Hike Day 2: From Locatelli to Lavaredo via Paternkofel

Distance Travelled: Not Sure
Elevation Gained: 340m
Time to Destination: 4 hours

When booking the trip, Martin somehow convinced me that we should do a guided climb one day.  He promised it would be kid friendly and I stupidly figured that meant it wouldn’t be too dangerous or difficult.  I failed to factor in that Europeans are typically a bit more trusting and fearless than Americans when it comes to these sorts of things.  The only kid friendly part was the very beginning and the very end. 

Our hired guide Robert met us at Locatelli at 8am and got us fitted out with helmets, harnesses, ropes and clips.  I was expecting this so I wasn't too alarmed.  The alarm came shortly after a few minutes of walking when Robert pointed out the peak we were going to climb (which was not the one I was expecting and significantly higher and steeper than anticipated). My concerns only grew when we reached the first section that required us to clip in.  It was straight up the side of the mountain.  No steps, no handrail, no foot holds. Just figure it out and go. It was around this time that I started questioning my life choices and realized I should have married a surfer… we could have been vacationing on a beautiful tropical beach with little physical or mental exertion required.   

The climb took us straight up the mountain, then through old WWI tunnels, one that was pitch black and had 200 steps up, followed by more mountain cliffs, steep drop offs and over 340m of elevation gain in not enough distance. We finally reached Forcella del Camoscio where Robert said we could leave our larger bags since the final section was an up and back to the top.  We not only left the bags, we also left me behind.  The final section was an additional hour climb up and back and while I could have done it, I really didn’t want to.  I stayed behind and enjoyed the views of the next valley, enjoyed the sun and enjoyed getting my stress and heart rate back down to a less elevated level. 

In the meantime, Martin, Oskar and Alva were having the best time. They were having Type 1 fun (immediate, pure, and joyful).  This was definitely a Type 2 type of fun for me (I didn't love it in the moment, but looking back, I am thankful and proud that I did it).

After finishing the peak, the group rejoined me and we made our way back down the other side of the mountain via Passportensteig. Which was again, a path cut out of the steep mountain cliffs, up and over a final pass and then back down to the main path.  

While on the second half of the hike we barely passed anyone and it was heavenly.  We had the whole mountain to ourselves and, with the silence and calm that comes with being all alone, was how I envisioned the hikes. 

About 20 minutes from our final stop for the night, we could see the “highway” below us filled with all of the hikers and tourists out for just the day.  We said goodbye to Robert and then found ourselves back among the people.   

Our second hut was a little smaller than the first, but given the proximity to Auronzo including its parking lot and bus stop, the place was incredibly busy with day hikers enjoying the sunshine on the deck and surrounding area. 

Once we checked in, we were able to access the private area and were pleasantly surprised: the rooms were semi-private (we had a five person room that we shared with only one other woman from Italy).  The room was spacious and well lit, the bunk beds were made of sturdy wood and the bathrooms were clean with a hot shower.  

Dinner that night was shared with two men from Germany and their adult sons.  While they were there on a multi-day hiking trip, it didn’t stop them from enjoying a few beers that night and the following morning.  

Fun Fact: I had to research most of these details after the trip since Martin wasn’t sure and there wasn’t a lot online.  It was during this research that I finally learned that via ferrata means iron path in Italian.  Apparently if I had done any planning in advance I would have learned that this meant I was in store for “a protected mountain climbing route that uses fixed steel cables, metal rungs, ladders, and bridges anchored into rock faces.”

Hut Hike Day 1: The Parking Lot to Locatelli

Distance Travelled: 5.17km
Elevation Gained: 250m
Time to Destination: 3 hours

After wrapping up our week at Sonklarhof, we all said goodbye and the four of us made our way to the Dolomites for our four day, three night hut hike.  The first challenge, finding parking for our car for those three nights and the start of the hike.  Thankfully Martin had done some research and found a bus to take us up to the starting point of the hike. Unfortunately, the parking options near the bus stop apparently fill up before 10am on Sundays and we got there at 1pm.  While a little stressful, we had one thing in our favor that gave me confidence that it would all work out: Money.  We had plenty of money to solve the problem, which is true to Breuer form in these situations.

Just a few minutes further down the road was Lake Misurina where we were able to find parking at a hotel for a reasonable price and Martin and I were able to relive a moment from our honeymoon.. Which was an unexpected surprise.  Turns out Misurina is where I thought the church tower in the middle of the lake was (for reference, I was completely wrong, the correct lake is Lake Resia).. So we went out of our way for nothing.  We ended up buying some really nice chamomile hand lotion at the Spar to salvage the drive. 

This time around, we bought sandwiches at the Spar to get us through the first day of hiking before we got to the hut later that afternoon. 

Fully stocked with water, food and excitement, we headed back to the bus stop and waited a few minutes for the bus to take us up to Refugio Auronzo - the starting point of our hike. 

Getting off of the bus was a little disorienting. There were people on the bus heading up just for a few pictures, there were people who were there for just a day hike and then there was us: fully packed and ready for a four day adventure.  One of our fellow bus riders seemed confused and even quipped “do you think you have enough supplies?”  To which we replied “hopefully we have enough for the four days.”  He seemed more than a bit surprised by our response to his snarky remark… he didn’t realize that you could actually spend multiple days out there and had assumed we were just out for a day hike. His snark and surprise quickly turned into awe and possibly a bit of jealousy. 

After getting off the bus and finally navigating our way to the trail Alva noted she was hungry and Oskar said he had to go pee. All of which I replied “Guys, we haven’t even left the parking lot”... Which happened to get a few laughs from some hikers who were taking off their shoes at their car and getting ready to drive back down the mountain.   

And then we were finally off. We went across a mountain, down a steep ravine, up the other side and finally made it to the hut just before the rains started. It was busier and larger than expected and the hut was packed, but we made it through the first day!

We enjoyed dinner that night with two women from Canada and a family from Belgium (who we saw earlier that day on the trail) and the kids got their first hut hike experience with a co-ed room that slept 16 others in metal bunk beds with just enough space to squeeze between to get into bed. 

We were in bed shortly after dinner since we had an early start the next day.  Robert, our guide, was meeting us at 8am to guide us up, through and over Paternkofel.

A New Season at Sonklarhof

I actually have no idea how many times we have been to Sonklarhof.  I am guessing it is nearing double digits for me (and Martin just celebrated 15 times… as recognized by the hotel gifting him a commemorative wooden plaque). But every trip has been in the dead of winter for cross country skiing.  This trip was our first in the middle of summer. It was completely the same hotel (no surprise), with much of the same staff, but a very different experience. 

Instead of skiing the loop on the valley floor each day, we spent our days walking through the valley,  along the hills and up to the infamous chapel (this time we actually made it all the way). In addition to the hikes, Martin rented mountain bikes for him and the kids to explore even further up the valley and mountains. 

At the hotel, we avoided the sauna and indoor pool (too hot) and instead spent time lounging outside around the second pool… we also discovered a third pool on the property along with miniature golf and tennis. All of which are typically closed for the winter. 

We even ventured out of our valley into a neighboring one for a gondola ride and walk up a new mountain. Similar to the Switzerland hikes, this one was geared towards kids and included a map, fun facts and hidden clues that none of the adults could figure out. 

The hotel hosted live music two nights including a one man accordion band who got Martin and the kids involved in his act in the lounge and a 30 piece band complete with trumpets, flutes, drums and violins. Both musical acts included classic German songs such as Sweet Caroline and Country Road.   

Unlike winter, the five course dinners didn’t seem as hard earned but were still equally as delicious. 

In the end, we all agreed that we preferred the hotel in winter but would be happy to go back any time.  Especially if it meant spending the time with the German family.  I think that is what makes the place so special, it is a full week with family in a beautiful setting, relaxed environment, things for everyone to do and no one has to cook or do dishes.