Lake Garda

What was I thinking… I thought to myself as we began our drive south from the Dolomites towards Lake Garda. Why had I insisted that we spend a few days at one of the lakes in Italy?! It was in the wrong direction of our final destination, making the drive back to the airport over nine hours long, the thermometer was increasing higher and higher with each mile driven and there was no reason why we needed to go to Lake Garda at all (there were countless other alpine lakes that were actually on our route back to Germany). The only thing I could think of is that it sounds like a good idea in the middle of a cold spell in February.  

But the Airbnb was booked and non refundable, so we were going. I just hoped my streak of booking bad accommodations wasn’t going to continue with this one. 

Thankfully the apartment was as nice as we had hoped and was even better than I had mentally prepared for:  it had AC, a good layout for our family, a nice pool and was a quick five minute walk to the lake. This we could work with. 

Highlights included, Aperol spritz’s, lots of pizza, pinsa and paninis, paddle boating and swimming in the lake and in the pool

Hut Hike Day 4: From Fonda Savio Homeward Bound

Distance Travelled: 3.8 km
Elevation Gained: 0
Time to Destination: 2.5 hours  

After two days of strenuous hiking (both mentally and physically) we were all excited for an easy walk back down to civilization and the car. The path took us from above the tree line and then back into the forest.  But while easy, it wasn’t without adventures. 

At the beginning of the hike down we could hear a few bells. I thought they were cow bells and tried to play it off like it was no big deal. But then it became a cacophony of bells and echoes and looking up we could see a herd of mountain goats running over a peak in the distance and down across our side of the mountain. Again, I aimed to be nonchalant and ease the kids’ concerns by telling them there was no way the goats were going to come to us… it was too far to cover. And then all of a sudden we were surrounded by goats.  One minute they appeared miles away and the next they were grazing on grass within arms reach.  

After a few minutes of excitement, and after persuading the kids that they in fact shouldn’t try to pet the goats, we continued our journey back down the mountain and into the valley and forest below. 

Overall it was an amazing trip and definitely a core memory for me and hopefully the kids.  But I will say that four days and three nights was the limit for the kids.  The final stretch was a gentle wide slope of green grass before the parking lot and the kids ran down it like they had escaped from captivity.  The joy they let out while running was not dissimilar to the kids from the Sound of Music running after reaching the safety of Switzerland. It could have also been because it was the first place where they could run without risk of falling off of a cliff, but who knows!

Hut Hike Day 3: From Lavaredo to Rifugio Fratelli Fonda Savio

Distance Travelled: 7.61km
Elevation Gained: 536m
Time to Destination: 5.5 hours

After the busy-ness of Locatelli, Lavaredo and Auronzo, we were all looking forward to our final night at the final hut, which was only accessible via a strenuous hike and would hopefully be a bit more mellow once we got there. 

While yesterday was mentally exhausting, this hike was physically tiring.  The first 2 km (between Lavaredo and Auronzo) were relatively flat and they flew by in no time.  And then we had to walk straight down the valley (almost back to where we originally started on the bus) descending over 450m in elevation gain. At the bottom, we cut off onto a side trail and were practically all alone…We passed no more than 20 people over the remaining 3 hour hike.  Which I suppose shouldn’t be surprising, the trail was straight up a gap in the mountains,  and included 536m in total elevation gain.   

Just before the final push (assisted by more cables and metal runs, this time without a harness) my energy was running low so we paused for a snack break. And then Alva and Oskar bounded up the remaining section like two experienced climbers offering me words of encouragement to get me up the final section. They had so much fun, they wanted to do the final section again afterwards. 

Upon arriving at the hut we knew it was going to be our favorite. It was much smaller, completely off the beaten path and the five picnic tables outside were occupied but not at capacity. It was amazing to think that on just the other side of the range there were hundreds of people and here there were less than 40.  

The only downside to the hut were the sleeping arrangements which made me more than a bit nervous and slightly claustrophobic… our beds were in the shared attic with 6 other people, the rafters were so low you had to perpetually duck, the natural light was limited and our feet were tucked so deep into the corners of the roof you couldn’t really lift up a leg when laying down.  

Sleeping accommodations aside, this was still our favorite hut.  The people were nice, the food was delicious, we actually slept just fine in the attic and it provided us with the experience we were looking for.

Hut Hike Day 2: From Locatelli to Lavaredo via Paternkofel

Distance Travelled: Not Sure
Elevation Gained: 340m
Time to Destination: 4 hours

When booking the trip, Martin somehow convinced me that we should do a guided climb one day.  He promised it would be kid friendly and I stupidly figured that meant it wouldn’t be too dangerous or difficult.  I failed to factor in that Europeans are typically a bit more trusting and fearless than Americans when it comes to these sorts of things.  The only kid friendly part was the very beginning and the very end. 

Our hired guide Robert met us at Locatelli at 8am and got us fitted out with helmets, harnesses, ropes and clips.  I was expecting this so I wasn't too alarmed.  The alarm came shortly after a few minutes of walking when Robert pointed out the peak we were going to climb (which was not the one I was expecting and significantly higher and steeper than anticipated). My concerns only grew when we reached the first section that required us to clip in.  It was straight up the side of the mountain.  No steps, no handrail, no foot holds. Just figure it out and go. It was around this time that I started questioning my life choices and realized I should have married a surfer… we could have been vacationing on a beautiful tropical beach with little physical or mental exertion required.   

The climb took us straight up the mountain, then through old WWI tunnels, one that was pitch black and had 200 steps up, followed by more mountain cliffs, steep drop offs and over 340m of elevation gain in not enough distance. We finally reached Forcella del Camoscio where Robert said we could leave our larger bags since the final section was an up and back to the top.  We not only left the bags, we also left me behind.  The final section was an additional hour climb up and back and while I could have done it, I really didn’t want to.  I stayed behind and enjoyed the views of the next valley, enjoyed the sun and enjoyed getting my stress and heart rate back down to a less elevated level. 

In the meantime, Martin, Oskar and Alva were having the best time. They were having Type 1 fun (immediate, pure, and joyful).  This was definitely a Type 2 type of fun for me (I didn't love it in the moment, but looking back, I am thankful and proud that I did it).

After finishing the peak, the group rejoined me and we made our way back down the other side of the mountain via Passportensteig. Which was again, a path cut out of the steep mountain cliffs, up and over a final pass and then back down to the main path.  

While on the second half of the hike we barely passed anyone and it was heavenly.  We had the whole mountain to ourselves and, with the silence and calm that comes with being all alone, was how I envisioned the hikes. 

About 20 minutes from our final stop for the night, we could see the “highway” below us filled with all of the hikers and tourists out for just the day.  We said goodbye to Robert and then found ourselves back among the people.   

Our second hut was a little smaller than the first, but given the proximity to Auronzo including its parking lot and bus stop, the place was incredibly busy with day hikers enjoying the sunshine on the deck and surrounding area. 

Once we checked in, we were able to access the private area and were pleasantly surprised: the rooms were semi-private (we had a five person room that we shared with only one other woman from Italy).  The room was spacious and well lit, the bunk beds were made of sturdy wood and the bathrooms were clean with a hot shower.  

Dinner that night was shared with two men from Germany and their adult sons.  While they were there on a multi-day hiking trip, it didn’t stop them from enjoying a few beers that night and the following morning.  

Fun Fact: I had to research most of these details after the trip since Martin wasn’t sure and there wasn’t a lot online.  It was during this research that I finally learned that via ferrata means iron path in Italian.  Apparently if I had done any planning in advance I would have learned that this meant I was in store for “a protected mountain climbing route that uses fixed steel cables, metal rungs, ladders, and bridges anchored into rock faces.”