From the entrance of the park, we still had a 45 minute drive to our hotel. And I was struck by a few thoughts during this time: this place is massive (it is the largest park in the lower 48 states and with no trees or any sort of obstruction, you can really see how far the land goes); while beautiful in its own weird, stark, Mars-like way, I really do I prefer trees and water in my landscape; being only mid April and already 92 degrees, I couldn’t imagine coming here in the summer; and finally, I really hoped the next two days weren’t going to be a complete bust.
We stopped along the way to check out the sand dunes (and attempted to sled down one of them) and called it quits after 15 minutes of being in the sweltering heat, preferring to get back in the car and continue to our hotel.
And thankfully that is where things started to look up. We had booked two nights at The Ranch Oasis, and it really was an oasis in the otherwise dry inhospitable landscape. It was lush with green grass and tall trees providing shade. It had three restaurants, an ice cream parlor, and a full market for food options. It had a swimming pool, tennis courts, mini putting green and horse stables. The only thing it didn’t have was electricity on our second day… but that is a story for a little later.
Or maybe right now.
Leading up to our visit I received an email noting that the electrical grid in Death Valley needed work so the hotel would be without power on Tuesday (our full day) from 10am-2pm. As we got closer to our trip the emails continued and the time period expanded. The weekend before our trip, the emails stated we were to be without power from 7am to 4pm and, if for some reason power wasn’t restored by 6pm we would have to evacuate. I wasn’t overly worried. The weather was forecasted to be in the mid 80s and we were planning on spending most of the day out exploring.
So Tuesday morning we woke up at 7, when the power was cut off, and started off our adventure without any lights on in the windowless bathroom. The resort thankfully ensured at least one restaurant was open for meals (with backup generators) so we grabbed a quick breakfast and we were off for the day.
Our first stop was to check out Badwater Basin before it got too hot in the day. Apparently 10am was already too late in the day for the kids, they complained every step we took in the 15 minute walk. From there we drove to Natural Bridge for a 2 mile hike through a canyon to see a cool rock formation. At 11am the temperature had already climbed to 90 degrees and there appeared to be little to no shade (again). Undeterred by the constant complaints and feet dragging by both kids, we managed to hike the 10 minutes needed to get into the canyon where we found the path shaded the rest of the way. And with the shade, the good moods returned and quickly the kids were looking for rocks and talking about coming back again but in the winter when it wasn’t so hot.
We lost our shade on the last ten minutes of the walk back to the car as well as our patience and Oskar’s special rock he had found during the hike. I was ready to leave without said rock, but Martin gave him two minutes to get out of the car to try to find it (he remembered having it in his hand as we looked at the sign post at the trailhead). So out he got. He spent 2 minutes walking around in the midday sun looking for his rock in a literal rock pile while we baked in the car waiting for the AC to cool us down. He finally gave up and rejoined us in the car, only to exclaim a moment later that there was something sharp in his pocket and low and behold he found his missing rock.
Knowing we wouldn’t be coming back anytime soon, we wrapped up our exploring of the park by taking the scenic route back to the hotel via Artist Drive.
Back at the hotel, the power was still off so we made the most of an afternoon in the heat without AC. Oskar and Martin went on a bike ride while I read on our patio and Alva played on the shaded playground. We went swimming and practiced our putting skills on the greens. Oskar played soccer on the manicured lawns.
By 5:15pm the power still wasn’t back on and things were not looking promising. So I sent Martin back to the pool with the kids while I got our things organized in the room in case we actually needed to evacuate. At 5:55, convinced we were going to have to leave, I heard a kid somewhere on the property yell “the lights are on!.” And just like that we were saved!
We enjoyed our last night in Death Valley laying on a blanket on the lush grass just outside the back door of our hotel room looking up at the stars and enjoying the warm spring air. We were heading to cooler climates the next day… Apparently these city kids (myself included) can’t handle the heat.
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| Our Oasis at The Ranch |
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| Badwater Basin |
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| Natural Bridge |
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| This photo is misleading... after 2 minutes Alva decided she actually didn't want to ride her bike |
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| Just outside our hotel room |
There is one additional story from this portion of the trip that has nothing to do with Death Valley but perfectly sums up Martin and my marriage. It will forever be known as the great pillow swapping incident. On our first night at the hotel, while I was reading Harry Potter to the kids, I noticed Martin beating the crap out of one of the pillows on the bed. It was a bulky misshapen pillow and he was trying to make it less so. After kissing the kids good night I crawled into bed only to find my pillow was also bulky and significantly lumpy and misshapen. I spent most of the night trying to get comfortable and wondering how the hotel could have such terrible pillows. The next morning I woke up and complained to Martin about the pillow (hoping to commiserate in our terrible luck). Three things happened at the same time, Martin got an interesting look on his face part laughing, part smirking, part guilt, I saw that the pillow he slept on was actually normal and, I realized that instead of fixing the bad pillow, he instead had shifted it over to my side of the bed and taken a normal one. So while I suffered the entire night thinking all of the pillows were the same (lumpy as hell), in reality they were all normal except for the one Martin knew was bad and had intentionally given to me. To be clear. The room came with 8 pillows, Alva, Oskar and Martin each had one and the rest were on the ground or wedged between the kid’s bed and the nightstand. There were plenty of choices. And yet Martin set me up with the bad one and without warning. Jerk.
Okay one more side story: we are pretty sure that Alva left her stuffed animal Crookshanks at the hotel on Death Valley. I remember seeing it right before we left and it was nowhere to be found once we got to Sequoia. I have logged a lost item request with the hotel but to date they haven’t found it. But here is the deal, Alva hasn’t yet mentioned Crookshanks being gone. That isn’t entirely unusual (Alva tends to rotate her favorite animal to cuddle with each night and it goes in waves of one night to a few weeks) but I also wouldn’t be entirely surprised to learn that she knows she lost him but doesn’t want to tell us. We are at a parenting stalemate. I am afraid to bring up the missing Crookshanks and unnecessarily make her sad but part of me wants to just ask her if she knows where Crookshanks is to see if she already knows. Only time will tell what the outcome will be and we may never know what happened to that orange stuffed cat.