With no set plans for our second day in Beynac, Martin and I flipped through the local magazine and found a “Marches des Producteurs de Pays Nocturnes” that day in Loubejac, only 45 minutes away. Interested in a local “farmers market” we figured it was a perfect way to spend the Thursday afternoon.
But before we left, Martin and I took the obligatory historical hot lap of Chateau de Beynac, the castle just up the hill from our hotel. Reading about the horses, men and women all sleeping in the same room, I could literally smell the stifling stench of the 14th century…I was ready for some fresh air and fresh produce.
After the 45 minute drive, Martin and I drove up a slight hill and found ourselves in Loubejac –home of one church with adjacent square, one town hall, 3 houses, 2 horses, and a market starting later that evening at 6:30pm…French lesson of the day: “Nocturnes” means “night”. The farmers market we were planning on attending that day was a night market and didn’t start for another 5 and ½ hours. With the space allocated for parking in the adjacent field large enough to hold 100+ cars, we figured we should come back to experience the market. The only problem: what to do with the next 5 and ½ hours?
We re-consulted the magazine and found another weekly market in a town only 25 minutes away. Done. We were heading to Montpazier.
Unfortunately for us, we showed up right when things were winding down…this market was only from 9:30 to 12:30. But following our normal motto: when life gives you lemons, make lemonade…or even better, panache, we grabbed a table in the square and ordered a snack and some beers.
Revived from our snack, we hit up the tourist office to see what the town had to offer (other than the market obviously). Apparently, it had a lot – Montpazier is considered one of the most beautiful towns in France and the tourist office offers a walking tour through the 13th and 14th century Bastide (city planning at its finest - Four hundred by two hundred meters on a grid system) to see the town. Talk about some dumb luck.
Thanks to the walking tour and an afternoon coffee and sweets, Martin and I were able to enjoy the rest of the day in Montpazier and head back to Loubejac just in time for the market. Although “market” is hardly the right term for it. In the small square next to the church, local vendors had set up booths (more like tables) selling various local delights including soup, salad, baguettes, escargot, fruit, cheese, fried potatoes, cakes and local wine. At the far end of the square were stacks of tables, chairs and benches for guests to help themselves to. Following the lead of the locals, Martin grabbed a table and I grabbed two chairs and we set up our dinner table in the middle of the square. With a quick trip to the car to get plates, glasses and silverware (packed for camping the following day) we were all set. We just needed the food.
And we bought it all: salad, fried potatoes, a baguette, a mini pizza, BBQ rack of sheep, goat cheese with walnuts covered with honey, raspberries and local wine (from the Cahors region). Eating in the middle of the square with the rest of the town and neighboring villages (including the “mayor” and his wife) overlooking the valley and rolling hills was truly a unique experience. And when the string of white lights surrounding the square turned on after the sun went down, the moment went from unique to unforgettable.
But before we left, Martin and I took the obligatory historical hot lap of Chateau de Beynac, the castle just up the hill from our hotel. Reading about the horses, men and women all sleeping in the same room, I could literally smell the stifling stench of the 14th century…I was ready for some fresh air and fresh produce.
After the 45 minute drive, Martin and I drove up a slight hill and found ourselves in Loubejac –home of one church with adjacent square, one town hall, 3 houses, 2 horses, and a market starting later that evening at 6:30pm…French lesson of the day: “Nocturnes” means “night”. The farmers market we were planning on attending that day was a night market and didn’t start for another 5 and ½ hours. With the space allocated for parking in the adjacent field large enough to hold 100+ cars, we figured we should come back to experience the market. The only problem: what to do with the next 5 and ½ hours?
We re-consulted the magazine and found another weekly market in a town only 25 minutes away. Done. We were heading to Montpazier.
Unfortunately for us, we showed up right when things were winding down…this market was only from 9:30 to 12:30. But following our normal motto: when life gives you lemons, make lemonade…or even better, panache, we grabbed a table in the square and ordered a snack and some beers.
Revived from our snack, we hit up the tourist office to see what the town had to offer (other than the market obviously). Apparently, it had a lot – Montpazier is considered one of the most beautiful towns in France and the tourist office offers a walking tour through the 13th and 14th century Bastide (city planning at its finest - Four hundred by two hundred meters on a grid system) to see the town. Talk about some dumb luck.
Thanks to the walking tour and an afternoon coffee and sweets, Martin and I were able to enjoy the rest of the day in Montpazier and head back to Loubejac just in time for the market. Although “market” is hardly the right term for it. In the small square next to the church, local vendors had set up booths (more like tables) selling various local delights including soup, salad, baguettes, escargot, fruit, cheese, fried potatoes, cakes and local wine. At the far end of the square were stacks of tables, chairs and benches for guests to help themselves to. Following the lead of the locals, Martin grabbed a table and I grabbed two chairs and we set up our dinner table in the middle of the square. With a quick trip to the car to get plates, glasses and silverware (packed for camping the following day) we were all set. We just needed the food.
And we bought it all: salad, fried potatoes, a baguette, a mini pizza, BBQ rack of sheep, goat cheese with walnuts covered with honey, raspberries and local wine (from the Cahors region). Eating in the middle of the square with the rest of the town and neighboring villages (including the “mayor” and his wife) overlooking the valley and rolling hills was truly a unique experience. And when the string of white lights surrounding the square turned on after the sun went down, the moment went from unique to unforgettable.
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