Saturday, August 13, 2016

Wine Tasting in Dernau



While the trip back to Germany was to see friends and family, it was also our first family vacation with Oskar and probably the only one we will ever have without the constant reminder of work back at home (with me on maternity leave and Martin not checking work emails we were truly off the grid). So I insisted that the three of us take a mini-vacation for a few nights while in Germany.  Many ideas were thrown around, I wanted wine tasting somewhere warm, Martin wanted something close so his parents could join for a night and we both wanted something easy travel-wise (we had already travelled 12 hours by plane and 2 hours by car to get to his town).  So we landed on Dernau in the Ahr Valley. 

Famous for its wine, Dernau is a cute little German town nestled in a steep valley created by the Ahr River.  The region is known for their Rotweinwanderweg, or Red Wine Hiking Trail, that connects the various towns along the river with a hiking path/trail that runs through the vineyards.  Yes, you can literally walk from one town to the next on a valley-long wine tasting adventure… it was like the W-Trail in Patagonia, but for wine lovers.

I was sold.

We rented a tiny apartment near the center of town and made the village our home for 5 nights.  With Oskar’s early bed time routine and lingering jet lag (or possibly general overstimulation) we cooked dinners in most nights, and with our morning breakfasts of rolls and coffee, we quickly became known to both the local baker, the butcher and grocery store clerk. 

Our days were spent exploring the town and region, trying to stay dry with the ongoing rain (so much for warm weather) and doing a little wine tasting.  And I truly mean “tasting”…not what pre-baby Lisa used to call “tasting.”  Wine “tasting” pre-baby really meant wine “drinking” which was typically an all-day affair that resulted in a mid-day nap and an early evening hangover.  Post-baby wine tasting is actually closer to the original intention. 

On Thursday, we stopped by two wineries to taste the local wines (Weingut Schlosshof, the oldest winery in the region and Weingut Ernst Sebastian, picked for the name).  With Oskar in the stroller, Martin and I calmly sipped the wines and I took advantage of the wine bucket to pour out what I didn’t need (something that I would have considered sacrilegious just a year ago).  We made a few purchases at each winery and tucked the bottles into the bottom of the stroller (one of the biggest perks of wine tasting with a baby).  

On Friday, with the weather finally giving us a break and letting a little sun through, we ventured along the wine trail to the nearby town of Marienthal and old monastery turned winery and restaurant.  Oskar was strapped into the ErgoBaby and we walked the 30 minutes along the valley and through the vineyards to the historic old property.  We enjoyed our lunch of Pflannkuchen with two glasses of wine and our desserts with coffee and tea and then headed back to Dernau just as it began to sprinkle. 

Later that afternoon was the true test, or rather defining moment, of how much things have changed.  At the recommendation of our apartment owner, we stopped by one more winery/restaurant for one last taste of the local wines before heading to the store for dinner. Halfway through our full glass of wine (it was less a winery and more of a restaurant so I ended up with a full glass) it started to rain.  Not a downpour, but definitely enough that we were going to get wet.  Our old selves would have ordered another glass of wine to wait out the rain, which would have normally turned into ordering a snack followed by more wine and eventually dinner… it was a really cute restaurant and I could have stayed all night.   But responsibility kicked in and we didn’t order that second glass of wine.  Instead, we covered up Oskar’s stroller with a swaddle and braved the rain long enough to grab stuff for dinner and get Oskar home in time for his bedtime routine.

Looks like we will need to head back when Oskar is a little older to properly enjoy wine “tasting” in Dernau. 






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