Three Perfect Days in Santiago

Every month United Airlines puts out their Hemispheres Magazine which highlights a new city and how to enjoy it over three perfect days.  And every flight, I look in vain to see if they would highlight a city I had been to or was going to…every flight until this one.  On our flight to Santiago, Martin and I had the luxury to read about how to make or three days in Santiago perfect.  And while I am pretty sure we did almost nothing suggested by United, our three days and three nights in Santiago were perfect nonetheless.

We were greeted at the arrivals area of the Santiago airport by the sister of the bride Hilke and were whisked away to the city and our home for the next 3 nights – Bruno’s B&B.  Recommended by the bride and groom (Anna and Tim), Bruno’s was conveniently located across the street from Parque Metropolitano de Santiago (the city’s central park) in a quiet area and a 10 minute walk to the closest metro station.  With plans to meet up with the wedding party around 8pm, Martin and I freshened up and set off to wander the city.

Our goal was to walk along the edge of the park and eventually walk to Barrio Bellavista for lunch.  Known for being an immigrant’s neighborhood, we were promised a vibrant scene with quaint cafes and fun bars.  But true to Breuer family tradition, before we could arrive, we had to get lost first…While not a bus stop or gas station, we did somehow end up somewhere even more romantic – the center median of the freeway! Why any city would put a dead-end staircase to the middle of freeway, I will never know, but we have been there and experienced it.

We quickly found our way again after a few additional wrong turns and were pleased to find not only the correct neighborhood but a great spot for a late lunch and cold beer.  While nothing special, Café Viva la Vida was perfect. 

One of the many unique murals from the neighborhood

Feeling revitalized we glanced at the map and decided to walk a little long out to Recoleta General Cemetery, a vast cemetery from 1822 with ornate graves of Evita & other historical figures (allegedly, I don’t think we actually saw the famous ones).  It seemed close, and Martin was interested in going.  Unfortunately either our map reading skills were rusty or the heat got to us…it turned into a 30 minute trek in 90 degree weather down a busy street without shade (and yes, I knew better to complain knowing what I had in store for me later in the trip).  It was at this point we realized that we were more than ill-prepared, we had no water and should have withdrawn some cash.  We were hot, thirsty and facing a two hour walk home since I was pretty sure no taxi would take our credit cards.  Thankfully the metro at the cemetery had an ATM (the first we had seen in 2 hours) and we were on our way home!

One of the many large family mausoleums.

Later that night we arrived at Anna’s parent’s house to see the happy couple and meet a few of the guests.  The informal gathering turned into homemade empanadas and a few too many pisco sours, both for me and the bride (unfortunately).

 
While the clock said 11pm, it only felt like 9 (either due to the 5 hour time difference or more likely, the 9;30 sunset) however we parted for the night to allow the couple a few hours of sleep before their big day.