Valparaiso; What Have We Done?!

When researching where to go during our trip we looked into a few options on the coast and, with rave reviews from our guide book, we selected Valparaiso. It was apparently the San Francisco of South America!  Our decision was further reinforced by both the bride and groom and various other friends; they all claimed “it is really nice!” and confirmed that we would have a great time.

Taking the bus from Santiago, I grew in excitement at the idea of a few days on the beach and a fun New Year’s Eve (Valpo as the locals call it, allegedly has the biggest firework display and party in Chile).  However, while I daydreamed of the warm sun and clean sand as we passed through the desert like hills and lush green valleys not too dissimilar from California’s central valley, Martin was reading up on Valpo from a difference guide book. This one warned of poverty, dirtiness and crime and Martin’s concerns began to grow.

Rolling into town and arriving at the bus station, my stomach clenched at our potential misstep; the city’s first impression reinforced Martin’s recent research.  And unfortunately all hopes of finding the charm in the city were dashed within 24 hours. 

Perched on the side of a few rolling hills, with a still working harbor, the city was a complicated mixture of the Oakland harbor, hills of South San Francisco (bordering between deep Mission and Bernal Heights) and the run down feeling of a long forgotten Sicilian city in the process of redefining itself.  My San Francisco it was not, but closer to the faded memories of Palermo, Italy.

 

The homes were built into the hillside seemingly one on top of the other, lacked any assurance of structural integrity and were patched up with brightly covered corrugated steel.  Every winding alley or steep ravine was speckled with garbage and we walked in fear of looking up, afraid of the uneven pavement and scattering of dog poo at our feet (thanks to the 1,000+ feral dogs that roam the city). 

Our first impression, the view from our Hotel

Much prettier in the sunset

The city had a few key points of interest which kept our days filled exploring:

The city, thanks to its step hills required and still relies on the use of vernaculars and acensors to connect the various neighborhoods.  These old carriages on cables were a unique find both in their historical significance as well as the lack of signage identifying them. Throughout our stay, we rode a few (including one acsensor that turned out to be just an elevator), but when location and destination required, Martin and I opted to walk the steep narrow streets and hidden staircases.  In one such instance, we waked up a hill only to realize we missed our turn and ended up on the wrong side of the valley.  Instead of turning around, we found a way down and back up through concrete stairways and long forgotten streets.

The marking of a funicular...down a hidden alley.

Paulo Nerudo, the nobel winning poet also maintained a residence in Valpo during the early part of the 20^th century.  An eclectic five story building, each room was filled with various nick-knacks and personal treasures that Paolo had personally acquired over the years.  An avid collector, he was known for bargaining and obsessing over any object even if it was not for sale, not giving up until he owned it.    He seemed like a man I could relate to.

And finally, Valpo, in an attempt to replace their maritime industry that was decimated thanks to the opening of the Panama Canal, has also become a spot for artists, hippies and the likes.  The Conception neighborhood was the best example of what the city is potentially trying to become.  Perched on the hill above the old city center, Conception was spotted with restaurants, cafes and shops.  But even more impressive, was the graffiti art that covered every possible surface available and then some.  The vibrant colors and bold designs were a much needed distraction to the congestion, dirt and wilderness of the city below and around.  

Below are a few images we had captured of the various art work during our walks.   

Anyone up for a ride?

Our first impression of Conception

What have we done?

I have no idea.

Unfortunately while the photos are intriguing and most likely what I will remember in the future, I have no desire to return and would not recommend more than a day trip from Santiago to this city in transition.  The howling dogs that kept us up all night and the howling winds of dirt and grim during day will help keep that promise.